The Great Food Escape Series: Copenhagen
Part Two: Casual dining
For brunch, we were recommended Granola, and while the incredible interior – it’s like a vintage sweet shop got together with a Parisian 1920s absinthe bar – is a thing of beauty, we felt the food was expensive and, quite frankly, nothing special. Maybe stick your head in for a £4 coffee (yep, read it and weep) and then move on to the far more down-to-earth Dyrehaven, where the dress code is less white shirts and black ties and more Carhartt and kicks.
With its small wood-panelled bar it feels like you have just stepped into a very quaint smalltown pub from yesteryear (one where the owners had a penchant for nailing the skulls of small critters to the wall and sticking sepia photos on the wall in the shape of a heart – as you do) and they serve a range of Nordic-style breakfasts (including smørrebrød and fried mackerel and potato salad) as well as old familiars like eggs Benedict.
But for a pick of a whole heap of fantastic food, and to grab up all the ingredients you need for a picnic, it has to be Torvehallerne KGH – two huge greenhouse-looking spaces with food trucks and stalls set up in the cobblestone square between them. Favourites here were Banh Mi Daily, open-sandwich extraordinaires Hallernes Smoerrebroed and the delicious Coffee Collective.
While outside, look out for Hija de Sanchez, a Mexican street food stall that was recently started by the ex pastry chef from Noma. Be aware that most days she does a Mexican stew so count yourself lucky if you turn up on a day she’s doing here world renowned tacos!
And for a great city centre coffee and breakfast spot (and next to a great homewares and clothes store called Superlove) it has to be Atelier September. Take time out on the high-ceiling, white-washed space and check out the cute boutique out back before heading to the Round Tower for cheap and fantastic views of Copenhagen’s green domes and spires
Come evening, Foderbraettet is the answer to all your sausage needs (especially if you are looking for something a bit more refined than the hotdog stalls that appear across the city) this place looks a little similar to Meat Mission on the inside (booths, dimly lit, pumping music, a fair bit of skull-meets-religious paraphernalia) and serves some delicious dogs (at less than £6 a pop) and bar snacks, we especially enjoyed:
Chili Dog – a spicy beef sausage topped with avocado crème, chilibean sauce, grated cheddar cheese, coriander and fried chilli
Infected Mushrooms – a lamb sausage made with spices, harissa and onion that comes topped with aioli, bacon and mushroom chips
And if you find yourselves tired out from all the fun of the fair that is to be had at Tivoli, next to the main entrance you will find delicious hotdogs at Andersen Bakery. Talking of bakeries – we found tasty treats at Det Rene Brod, there are three outlets across the city and the seeded sweet-meets-savoury Frosnapper is great, while Meyers Bageri in the hipter Jagersborggade area is renowned for its jammy dodger-style Hindbaer Snitte. There’s another branch of Coffee Collective just across the road to wash it down.
We digress. The beer options at Foderbraettet are a bit thin on the ground, so maybe head here to take the edge off your hunger before hitting Warpigs. Smack-bang in the middle of the meatpacking district this huge space sits among a number of warehouses that are still used to process and pack a daily delivery of carcasses, in fact it’s kind of gory if you take a look at the warehouse floors as you pass by in the evening, and true to the region’s name the places that have had a foodie makeover retain their protein-packed roots, in addition to a stripped down aesthetic with white tiled walls and exposed concrete floors being de rigueur.
Self-service meats, ordered by weight – 1/4lb, 1/2lb or 1lb – are cut from huge slow-cooked BBQ cuts (we opted for pork shoulder – like every cut it will have been smoked for between 12-14 hours in one of two gigantic smokers), chucked on the scales and popped on your tray before you add on sides such as classic dill pickle (a piquant mix achieved with black peppercorns, chunks of garlic, dill and mustard seeds) or mac n cheese and pay at the counter, where you can also order your beer – thanks to a American brewery 3Floyds and Danish brewery Mikkeller partnership this place constantly updates their 20 taps – when we visited the Mikeller-Beavertown collaboration easily grabbed the title of pint of the trip. Then there’s always the six-beer tasting paddle.
There’s heavy metal music playing and a skull-chandelier graces The General’s Room (housed in a glass sectioned-off area), which is reserved for private parties, while the rest of us chow down at one of the wooden communal tables in a canteen-style space that throbs to the sound of Motorhead (perhaps it no surprise that one of head chef Andrew Hroza’s main claims to fame is the time he fed Slipknot). There are four sauces to squirt on your tray: Alabama, creamy BBQ sauce with black pepper, horseradish and a vinegary bite; Texas, spicy BBQ sauce made with house lambic and cranberries; Kansas City, sweet BBQ sauce with layers of spices like cloves and allspice; and Carolina, sweet mustard based BBQ sauce.
You might also be interested in our other Copenhagen features:
- 9 Things You Need To Know Before You Visit Copenhagen.
- The Great Food Escape Series: Copenhagen – Part 1 – Tasting Menus.
- The Great Food Escape Series: Copenhagen – Part 2 – Casual Dining.
- The Great Food Escape Series: Copenhagen – Part 3 – Drinking and (not) Driving.
- Our curated Copenhagen Dining + Drink Google Map.