Rubbish ramen is not new to Melbourne: this dish of thin wheat noodles in broth is a staple at Wagamama, for instance. (Hell, it’s also what a Pot Noodle is, essentially.)

But in London several restaurants have popped up here recently that are dedicated to it.

In Japan, the perfect end to a boozy night out is a steaming bowl of noodle soup full of slices of roast pork, marinated soft-boiled eggs, beansprouts and spring onions. It might sound healthy, but it ain’t – most ramen contains a hefty shot of animal fat.

This noodle dish’s status as the Japanese version of a greasy, late-night kebab isn’t lost on Tonkotsu’s chefs. The ramen at this new stall is big and bad, but in the best way possible.

Owing as much to New York’s current ramen craze as it does to Japan, Tonkotsu exudes machismo – echoing the Big Apple’s noodle soup trend. A good ramen has three key components: a well flavoured broth, bouncy noodles and interesting toppings.

Tonkotsu, a variety of ramen made with long-simmered bone broth (20 hours in this case), had a flavour so intense it was reminiscent of a Sunday roast, and marbled with lip-smacking pork fat. Testament to this soup’s Chinese – not Japanese – roots, Tonkotsu also serves Tokyo Spicy – soy-sauce pork and chicken stock topped with pulled chilli pork.

The flavours are big and bold; the dining room tightly packed; the staff are friendly – Tonkotsu is a whole lot of fun as long as you don’t mind a short wait for your rightful spot at the table of ramen.

Tonkotsu

63 Dean St

London,

UK W1D 4QG

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